Affordable Large DIY Picture Frames Under $20

Time needed: 3 hours

Follow these detailed instructions for an easy and affordable DIY picture frame, perfect for large art prints.

1. Cut Boards and Screen Molding Down to Size.

   Precision in cutting is the foundation of a professional-looking frame. For each frame, you will need four pieces cut from your 1″ x 2″ pine boards: two horizontal pieces and two vertical pieces. It’s crucial to understand how these pieces interact: the horizontal pieces will intentionally overhang the vertical pieces to create a recessed area for your art. Similarly, you’ll need four pieces of screen molding, cut to the exact same lengths as your 1″ x 2″ pieces.

   To ensure your frame perfectly accommodates your print while allowing enough surface area for attachment, adhere to this precise measurement formula:

   • Cut each horizontal pine piece to be 1/4 inch longer than the width of your print. This slight extra length creates the necessary overhang.
   • Cut each vertical pine piece to be 1 1/4 inches shorter than the height of your print. This accounts for the total overlap created by the horizontal pieces at the top and bottom.

   The diagrams below illustrate this critical sizing concept. While these diagrams were originally created for a different project, the underlying “formula” for calculating board lengths remains universally applicable for any size print you’re working with. Always double-check your measurements against your actual print before making cuts.

   
   
   

2. Sand and Stain.

   Once your cuts are made, take a moment to lightly sand any rough edges or splinters created by the saw. This step is crucial for a smooth, professional finish and helps the stain adhere evenly. Use a fine-grit sandpaper (around 120-220 grit) and work in the direction of the wood grain. After sanding, wipe away any sawdust with a clean cloth.

   Next, grab your chosen wood stain (we used American Walnut for a classic look) and apply it generously to all cut pieces. You can use a sponge applicator, a brush, or a clean rag. For an even application, wipe the stain on, allowing it to penetrate for a few minutes, then wipe off any excess with a clean paper towel. This prevents a blotchy appearance and highlights the natural wood grain. For a deeper color, apply a second coat after the first has dried completely. Always wear latex gloves to protect your hands and work in a well-ventilated area.

   

3. Create Wooden Frame.

   Allow the stain to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions before proceeding. Once dry, it’s time to assemble your frame. The key to strong, square joints is using 90-degree clamps. Position two pieces of your frame (one horizontal, one vertical) together, ensuring they form a perfect right angle, and secure them tightly with the clamps. This will hold them firmly in place while you fasten them.

   With the clamps holding the corner square, use your staple gun or brad nailer to attach the boards to each other. Drive staples or brad nails through the horizontal piece into the end grain of the vertical piece. For extra durability, you can also apply a bead of wood glue to the joint before clamping and nailing. Repeat this process for all four corners, carefully aligning each piece to form a perfectly square and sturdy frame. Ensure the frame is square before the glue fully sets (if used).

   

4. Position Your Print, Art, or Photograph.

   Once you are confident that your stain is thoroughly dry and your frame is securely assembled, you’re ready to integrate your artwork. While this method is incredibly effective and budget-friendly, I wouldn’t recommend it for irreplaceable, super-expensive original art pieces due to the permanent nature of some attachment steps. However, it’s absolutely perfect for displaying large posters, reproduction paper prints, or any non-valuable print like the ones we used in this project.

   Carefully lay your print face down on a clean, flat surface. Then, center the back side of your newly constructed frame over the print. Ensure that the frame’s opening is perfectly aligned with your artwork, leaving an even border (or no border, depending on your preference) around the edges. It helps to flip the frame and print over to check the alignment from the front before proceeding to the next step. You can use a few pieces of painter’s tape on the back to temporarily hold the print in place.

5. Add Screen Molding.

   This step is what truly elevates the look and stability of your DIY frame. With your print carefully positioned on the back of the frame, you will now “sandwich” the print. Take your pre-cut pieces of screen molding and place them over the edges of your print, aligning them with the inner perimeter of the frame. The screen molding serves two vital functions: it securely holds your print in place and provides a clean, finished edge to the back of the frame, preventing the print from sagging or shifting.

   Using your brad nailer (or staple gun), carefully attach the screen molding to the frame, ensuring it presses down firmly on the edges of your print. Drive nails every few inches along each strip of molding. This step makes SUCH a difference! It keeps your prints nice, taut, and smooth, eliminating any wrinkles or bumps that might detract from your beautiful artwork.

   
   

6. Patch Holes.

   With your entire DIY picture frame now fully assembled, the final touch for a professional finish is patching any visible nail or staple holes. My absolute favorite product for this task is Mohawk’s Patchal Putty. It is remarkably easy to work with, far surpassing traditional wood filler or spackle in terms of user-friendliness. Its texture is incredibly smooth, almost like butter or Crisco, making application effortless.

   The best feature of Patchal Putty is that it comes pre-colored in various wood tones, eliminating the headache of trying to stain over patched areas afterward. (I don’t know about you, but we can never truly get wood filler to accept stain properly, leading to uneven finishes.) For this project, the Van Dyke Brown color blended seamlessly with our American Walnut stain. Simply apply a small amount of putty with a putty knife, pressing it firmly into each hole, and then wipe away any excess. The transformation is immediate and dramatic, making the frame look flawless. It literally takes about 4 seconds to achieve this perfect finish!

   
   
   

   And here’s the before and after for you. It took about 4 seconds to accomplish this!

   
   

7. Hardware.

   The final step is to attach the hanging hardware to your beautifully framed art. For most large frames like these, sawtooth hangers are an excellent choice due to their simplicity and ease of installation. Position one or two sawtooth hangers near the top center of the back of each frame. For wider frames, using two hangers spaced apart will help the frame hang more securely and stay level. Ensure they are aligned correctly so your art hangs straight.

   Once the hardware is attached, you’re ready to hang your custom-made art frames! Take a step back and admire your handiwork. These DIY frames not only save you money but also give you the satisfaction of knowing you’ve created a beautiful piece of home decor with your own hands.

   

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