Form-Free Concrete Vanity and Sink: Easy DIY for Everyone

Time needed: 2 hours and 30 minutes

This entire project is surprisingly quick and straightforward, taking approximately 2.5 hours of active work (excluding drying time). You’ll be amazed at how fast you can transform your bathroom!

1. 1. Remove your old faucet.

   Begin by turning off the water supply to your vanity and removing the old faucet. If you plan to replace your drain stopper, now is also the time to remove it. However, if you intend to reuse your existing drain stopper, you can leave it in place for now. This initial step ensures a clean working surface and prevents any obstruction during the concrete application.

2. 2. Scuff sand your countertop and sink.

   Using 150-grit sandpaper (or a higher grit if you prefer a less aggressive scuff), lightly sand the entire surface of your existing countertop and sink. The goal here isn’t to remove the entire finish, but rather to create a dull, scuffed surface. This textured surface provides the necessary grip for the concrete overlay to properly adhere, ensuring a strong and lasting bond. This step should be quick – you’re just aiming to break the shine.

   
   

3. 3. Install your new drain stopper.

   If you’re upgrading your faucet and drain stopper, install the new drain stopper now, *before* applying any concrete. We learned this the hard way! Originally, we completed this project without the drain stopper installed, which unfortunately led to some discoloration around the drain a year later, likely due to water seeping underneath and darkening the concrete. We successfully fixed it by removing the drain, carefully chipping away a bit of concrete, reseating the drain, and then applying new concrete around its edge (you can see our repair process here). To save yourself this extra step, ensure your drain stopper is firmly in place from the start. You’ll install the new faucet later.

4. 4. Mix your concrete overlay.

   Now it’s time to mix your Ardex or Henry’s Feather Finish. Pour a reasonable amount of the dry mix into your drywall tray. Gradually add water, mixing thoroughly with a small putty knife. The ideal consistency you’re aiming for is similar to thick pancake batter – not too runny, not too stiff. After initial mixing, let the mixture sit for about 2-3 minutes; this allows the polymers to fully hydrate. Then, give it another good stir. Your concrete overlay is now ready for application.

   

5. 5. Apply your first thin coat of concrete.

   Using your large drywall knife, apply a very thin, even coat of concrete to the entire cultured marble countertop surface, including any backsplash. It’s crucial to apply this first layer thinly; do not try to achieve full, opaque coverage. This initial coat will likely look messy and uneven, with the original surface still showing through – this is completely normal and expected, so don’t get nervous! Use your smaller putty knife for the backsplash and your gloved fingers to work the concrete into corners and along the edges. Don’t worry if you get some on the walls; it can be wiped off easily, even after drying.

   

6. 6. Apply concrete to the sink basin.

   Next, apply the concrete overlay to the sink basin. For this intricate area, your gloved fingers are the best tools. Gently spread the concrete around the curves and contours of the sink. Again, the goal for this first coat is thin coverage, not perfection. It will appear messy with visible finger marks, and that’s perfectly fine for now. Remember to always protect your skin with latex gloves throughout this process.

   

7. 7. Allow the first coat to dry completely.

   Patience is key! Allow the first coat of concrete to dry completely. While it dries fairly quickly, especially in well-ventilated areas, I typically let each coat cure overnight. This ensures maximum strength and adhesion before proceeding to the next step, preventing any issues with subsequent layers.

8. 8. Lightly sand the dried coat.

   Once the first coat is fully dry, gently hand sand the entire surface with 150 or 220-grit sandpaper. The aim is to knock down any high spots, rough edges, or noticeable imperfections, creating a smoother base for the next layer. NOTE: If your first coat was applied too thickly and has significant ridges or bumps, an electric sander might be more effective for achieving a smoother surface efficiently.

   

9. 9. Layer additional coats until desired coverage.

   Repeat steps 5 through 8 (mix, apply, dry, sand) until you achieve your desired coverage and smoothness. With each subsequent coat, you’ll find it easier to build up the concrete, filling in gaps, smoothing imperfections, and getting better coverage in corners and on edges. I personally used my fingers to ensure thorough application in all the nooks and crannies. I was satisfied after three coats, but I have considerable experience with this product from our DIY concrete fireplace project, allowing me to apply it quite smoothly. If you’re new to this, you might need four or more coats to achieve a perfectly smooth finish. Remember, the goal is to build up thin layers. The photo below shows what the second coat looks like while drying – it will still appear splotchy and imperfect! DON’T PANIC! This is part of the process, and it will smooth out with further coats and sanding.

   

   This image shows the second coat drying, still a “splotchy mess.”

   

10. 10. Smooth out the concrete in the sink basin.

    For your second and third coats within the sink basin, an important technique is to gently smooth out any finger ridges with a damp sponge AFTER the concrete has dried slightly. The timing is crucial here: you want the concrete to be firm enough to hold its shape but still workable. If it’s too wet, you’ll simply wipe the concrete away, which is not what we want. This step might require a little trial and error, but generally, waiting 10 to 20 minutes after application allows for optimal smoothing. As mentioned in step 6, do not attempt to smooth the first coat in the sink, as it will just wipe off. This smoothing technique is only effective and necessary for the subsequent coats.

    

11. 11. Perform a final sanding.

    Once you are completely satisfied with the coverage and overall appearance of your concrete vanity top, it’s time for the final sanding. I prefer to do this by hand using fine-grit sandpaper (220-grit) to maintain precise control and avoid over-sanding, especially along edges and corners. The goal is to achieve a silky-smooth finish that feels pleasant to the touch. If, however, you still have stubborn imperfections or rough patches, you might need to bring out the electric sander for a more aggressive but careful approach.

12. 12. Apply a concrete sealer.

    The final crucial step is to apply a high-quality concrete sealer. I strongly recommend using a water-based acrylic concrete sealer with a satin finish. This type of sealer not only protects your concrete from moisture, stains, and daily wear but also imparts a beautiful, smooth finish with a subtle sheen. It also tends to slightly deepen and darken the concrete color, which I personally find enhances its aesthetic. When applied, the sealer may initially appear milky, but don’t worry – it will dry crystal clear. Follow the product directions carefully; avoid applying the sealer too thickly or allowing it to puddle. Ensure you smooth out any air bubbles as you go. I applied two coats for maximum protection and a flawless finish.

    

13. 13. Install your new faucet.

    Once the concrete sealer has completely dried and cured according to the manufacturer’s instructions, you can proceed with installing your new faucet (or reinstalling your old one if you kept it). We sourced our fantastic new faucet from Amazon for just $39 – an incredible deal that perfectly complements the concrete look. You can find the exact faucet we purchased here. Connect the water lines, turn the water back on, and check for any leaks. Your stunning new DIY concrete vanity is now ready to enjoy!

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